User:Saul/3d printer

De Organic Design

This page contains my notes on 3d printing.

Hardware

Nozzles

A good nozzle is required for accurate printing, smaller sizes have neater finishes but take longer, where big nozzles do it quicker but the layers are more visible.
Here are some nozzles people seem to recommend:

  • E3D Volcano
  • E3D V6

Plastic

PLA, ABS, TPU, TPEG and composite filaments - aliexpress.

OctoPi

You can set the Raspberry Pi up with a 3d printer via OctoPi to allow video streaming and wireless control see here.
The pi would not connect to the network with the wifi stick and the default instructions - I had to change my configuration to the following:

network={
	ssid="xxxxxxx"
	psk="pass"
	proto=RSN
	key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
	pairwise=CCMP TKIP
	auth_alg=OPEN
}

Software

Printrun/Pronterface

Printrun/Pronterface is a good program to connect to the printer and control it from your computer.

Slic3r

Slic3r is a program for imported models and configuring them for the printer and exporting the print-ready gcode.

Fill Settings

My recommended fill settings are:

  • Wall layers: 3 (tested to be the apex for strength)
  • Top and bottom layers: 5 (I have found the default of 3 not quite enough in most circumstances)
  • Fill type: Rectlinear (tested to be the strongest)
  • Fill percentage: >30% (anything less is just too weak)
  • Fill speed: ?

Retraction Settings

Retraction is where the extruder runs in reverse to prevent plastic coming out when it is moving, this prevents issues like stringing.

TODO

Without Auto-leveling

Try connecting THE 2 motors in series and adding 2 more on the other sides in series (to support the entire bed) and reduce stepper distance to account for the increased load.

With Auto-leveling

The two steppers must be adjacent to stop the board flexing.

Useful Links